History of Scotch Whisky

“To Friar John Cor, by order of the King, to make aqua vitae, VIII bolls of malt.”—Exchequer Rolls of Scotland, 1 June 1495.

And there you have it; the earliest verifiable note referring to the distillation of spirits in Scotland.  Now, distillation has been around for a long time.   People were distilling alcohol way before it was done in Scotland; over 1000 years before.  But for the purposes of Scotch we’ll start right here.

There are a few theories regarding how the process of distillation was brought to Scotland.  The most commonly held belief was that it was shared by monks who found themselves without a monastery and were willing to part with the knowledge for a place to live. 

At the same time, early Scottish farmers were growing barley.  It’s a hardy plant that grew well in the area and could be used to feed both people and livestock.  On occasion, when they had more than they could use and feasibly store, the surplus would often find itself distilled into uisge beatha or “whisky” for short.

Originally uisge beatha, which is Gaelic for “Water of Life”, was used for medicinal purposes.  It was prescribed for the relief of colic, palsy and other ailments.  However, it wasn’t long before the “healthy” started to see how happy the sick were.  After that, everybody was getting “medicated” at weddings, parties, festivals, and in the privacy of their own home.

It also became a source of trade and income, with distillers trading their spirits for a host of commodities that were necessary for the running of a homestead or little luxuries.  And the trade wasn’t limited to just Scotland, they also traded with folk South of the border (England.)  Unfortunately for the early distillers (who started to see a significant increase in there good fortunes), it wasn’t long before the Scottish Parliament wanted a piece of the action.

In 1644, two things happened simultaneously: Whisky production was officially taxed and the dawn of illicit whisky distilling began.  The stories of whisky smuggling and tax evasion are many and varied, to include (but not limited to): smoke signals to warn of approaching tax collectors, hidden barrels in chapel pulpits, and whisky smuggled in coffins.

In 1707, there was a Union of the Parliaments of England and Scotland, and the English revenuers crossed the border to begin their lengthy attempts to bring whisky production under control.  Their attempts to control licensed distilleries and curb illegal stills met with little success.   By 1780, there were about eight legal distilleries and 400 illegal ones.

There are two big changes that revolutionized the industry and launched Scotch whisky into the world market.  First, was the invention of the column still, also known as the Coffey Still, which streamlined the process in producing alcohol from grain and malted grain.  The second, and in my opinion the more important factor, was the phylloxera aphids epidemic that destroyed most of the vineyards in England and Europe, most notably in France. 
 

While tax collectors were cracking down on illegal distilleries to the North, the English were enjoying “proper” libations like Brandy, Port wine, Sherry, and Gin.  When the production of wine grapes was catastrophically reduced due to the epidemic, there was a sudden lack of Brandy, Port wine, and Sherry.  Gin was still available, but it was barely regulated at the time and was considered a drink for the poor.  The decidedly “not-poor” needed an alternative, and their neighbors to the North had the solution.  By the time the vineyards had recovered, Scotch had firmly and irrevocably established itself in the drinking world.

However, that is not to say that there weren’t problems.  The worst of which was the lack of regulation.  Since everybody wanted to get into this cash cow they were producing anything they could, as fast as they could, without any kind of quality control.  In fact, by 1870 Scotch had developed a reputation for being a very low quality whisky.  This seriously undermined the confidence of people purchasing Scotch since there was no way for the consumer to tell the difference between a good bottle and bad. 

So the Irish distillers, who were also up and coming, decided to make a bid for number one.   But they had to make sure their buyers knew what they were buying.  So to differentiate their product from the lesser quality Scotch whisky, they added the “e” in “whiskey.”  Since Irish whiskey is triple distilled, it offered less variation and greater consistency which consumers were quick to pick up on.

There is very little that will motivate a government and its people to cooperate quickly than the loss of income.  Within a brief period of time definitions, regulations, and reasonable taxes were put in place.  Since that time, Scotland has taken great pains to protect the quality and reputation of Scotch whisky. 
The most recent protections in place since the writing of this piece are the Scotch Whisky Regulations Guidance of 2009.  I mentioned an abridged version of this in an earlier blog. Here is a more detailed definition.  A Scotch Whisky is a whisky:

(a)  which has been produced at a distillery in Scotland from water and malted barley (to which only whole grains of other cereals may be added) all of which have been:

(i)  processed at that distillery into a mash;

(ii) converted at that distillery to a fermentable substrate only by endogenous enzyme systems; 

(iii) fermented at that distillery only by the addition of yeast;

(b)  which has been distilled at an alcoholic strength by volume of less than 94.8% so that the distillate has an aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production;

(c)  which has been wholly matured in an excise warehouse in Scotland in oak casks of a capacity not exceeding 700 liters, the period of that maturation being not less than three years;

(d)  which retains the color, aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in, and the method of, its production and maturation, and to which no substance other than water and plain caramel coloring may be added.

What is Scotch Whisky?

Let's talk about Scotch.  This topic alone will cover several of my posts for this year and possibly into next year depending on how infrequently I write.

We'll start with its definition.  To be a Scotch whisky it has to be produced at a distillery in Scotland from water and malted barley.  It needs to be aged in oak casks for at least three years and bottled at a minimum alcohol volume of 40% (80 proof.)

Distillers can purchase all of the ingredients outside of Scotland, but all of it is readily available in country.  Barley is a pretty hardy plant and grows well in Scotland.  Some distillers will proudly claim that they only use Scottish barley.  I do know that barley is purchased from other countries to be used in Scotch if the distillers think that it will add additional flavor or character to the scotch (e.g. The Glenmorangie "Signet.") 

I am not sure if there are any laws regulating where they can get their water from (e.g. an arctic glacier, bottled water), but it would be strange to use anything other than the water that the distillery is closest to.  Though water from a glacier would be pretty cool...no pun intended.

Now the oak casks are a completely different story.  I was told that many of the casks that they age Scotch in comes from American Bourbon distilleries.  Part of the production of bourbon is that the cask used in its ageing can only be used once.  Scotch production has no such limit, so they are able to purchase these casks at a price lower than if they constructed them themselves.  The production of Sherry also creates an excess of casks form which the Scottish distiller can benefit from. 

So, even though the ingredients can be outsourced, the magic has to happen within the borders of Scotland...or to put it simply, it's Scotch only if it's made in Scotland.

This is just a beginners definition of Scotch.  There are actually more rules and regulations in regard to its definition, but I didn't want to overwhelm you with minutia.  Instead, as I continue to post about production, regions, nomenclature, etc., I will explain rules and regulations specific to the topic covered.  This way we can keep our focus where it belongs, on the Scotch.

How to taste your whisky

I recently had the pleasure of attending “The Art of The Dalmore: Scotch Whisky Master Class”, wherein I had the opportunity to hone my tasting skills under the tutelage of Richard Patterson, Master Distiller for Whyte & Mackay, Glasgow Scotland.  The class was hosted by Astor Center in NYC and a better setting I could not imagine.

I covered whisky tasting under “The Whisky Maunche”, but after having attended this class I need to make some minor revisions. 

I want you to understand that you don’t “shoot”, “chug”, or “belt down” whisky.  You approach whisky tasting with the air of a pulp fiction detective…taking in all the subtle clues in your investigation until you have reached your conclusion and share it with the world.  Patterson had a much more intimate feel for the process, likening it to when a gentleman is paying court to a lady.

Inspecting the color

The first thing you see in a whisky is the color.  The longer the whisky has been aging in the barrel, the darker and richer the color will be.  A younger whisky is more yellow in character, whereas an older one will have a deep amber color.  Other factors may affect the color, like the barrel it was aged in for example.  If the whisky is aged in a barrel that previously held port wine, you’ll get more of a red-gold or copper colored whisky.  So when you pick up a glass of whisky, this is your first “clue” to what you may taste.

Your next step in appreciating your whisky is taking in the bouquet, or “nosing.”  One of the things about this class that was truly inspired was the inclusion of scent samples prior to the nosing.  Patterson provided kits that contained 10 of the more common scents associated with Dalmore whisky.  This helped prep your nose and brain as to what you should be on the lookout for.  Your scent library suddenly went from the hundreds of smells you know, to the few that were required for that evening. 

Patterson nosing his scotch

Continuing on his analogy of approaching a lady, he walked up to the glass, swirled its contents, slowly brought the glass to his mouth and breathed a sultry “hello” to it.  He then brought the glass to his nose slowly tilting its contents toward his nose.  He repeated this three or four times to really pick out the subtle scents in the whisky.   After fully appreciating the rich color and luxuriant scents, all there is left to do is to taste.

The actual tasting is the last step in the appreciation of whisky.  Patterson had us take a healthy sip and then hold it in our mouths for 15 seconds.  He encouraged us to hold it in the “middle” of our tongue, avoiding the tip and back.  He also strongly suggested running the whisky underneath the tongue.  The whisky that evening had a “peppery” feel when tasted that way…until I swallowed.  After you swallow and breathe air over your tongue the flavors started to emerge.  The sensation was fleeting, which of course inspired you to do it again.  And that’s how we ended the evening.

So whether you are a detective searching for clues, or a flirtatious connoisseur, you now have the tools for fully appreciating the whiskies I’ll be talking about for posts to come.  Also, if you ever find time, and the opportunity arises where you can take a whisky class such as the one I mentioned, please do so.  This was an entertaining and educational experience.  Richard Patterson is a true gentleman who took time to learn our names and chat with us after the class.  The Astor Center provided an atmosphere that felt classy, exclusive, with just a hint of the “Master Class” mystique.  You can see more pictures from the event here.   This would make a great gift for some and a unique “date night” for others.   

What is Barley Whiskey?

The last of the four whisky grains I want to cover is Barley Whiskey.  Typically when you look this up through other sources you will immediately be referred to Scotch.  However, there is an important distinction that needs to be made; All Scotches are Barley whiskies, but not all Barley whiskies are Scotch.

For the sake of simplicity I will be limiting the post to whiskies made up from a mash of at least 51% Barley, at least 40% ABV, and not produced in Scotland.  Even with this distinction, there is a large selection to choose from. 

Essentially, many other countries produce a whisky that if produced in Scotland, would be considered a Scotch.  Yamazaki, a very reputable Japanese single malt whisky, can trace its origins to back to 1920, when Masataka Taketsuru was the distillery executive. Taketsuru had studied the art of distilling in Scotland, and brought this knowledge back to Japan.  St. George Spirits in Alameda, CA produces a single malt whisky that has characteristics unique to the USA.  Penderyn Distillery in Wales, UK produces a select group of single malt whiskeys.   Last, but certainly not least, Ireland produces some world class whiskeys of their own like Jameson’s and Bushmill’s just to name two.

Since a great many of my future posts will involve whisky made from germinated or “malted” barley (as well as the few I mentioned above,) I won’t bore you any longer with semantics and press on to the good stuff.

What is Corn whiskey

The third whiskey grain I want to cover is Corn.  Corn whiskey, or Corn liquor, is an American liquor made from a mash made of at least 80 percent corn.  This is a significant deviation from typical American whiskey laws which normally state that a mash mixture should be made up of no less than 51 percent of the grain it’s named after. 

Many people are familiar with “Moonshine”, the romanticized yet still illegal distillation of Corn whiskey in the United States.  Its illegality stems largely from the lack of taxes the Moonshine distillers pay the government.  That and the lack of product oversight and regulation can lead a consumer to purchase a product that can lead to sickness, blindness, or possibly death.

Like many other whiskies, Corn whiskey is usually 40 percent ABV and higher.  It is typically un-aged, going straight from the still to the bottle.  Since there is little to no aging involved, the whiskey will be clear with a strong alcohol smell and quite a bit of bite.

For my experimentations I tried The Original Moonshine, HudsonNew York Corn Whiskey, and something in a mason jar a friend told me was Moonshine.  The first two can be purchased legally at a liquor store, whereas the third had dubious origins that I’d rather not consider.

The Original Moonshine from Stillhouse Distillery is 100% corn whiskey distilled to 80 proof (40% ABV.)  It is clear and comes in a nicely designed bottle.  It has a little bit of a rubbing alcohol aroma and not much else.  The fore-taste is smooth with a bit of a bite on the after taste.  It’s mildly sweet on the tongue with a hint of what reminds me of green, grape skin.  It has a gentle burn going down.  This is something I might want a sip of after shoveling the snow off the driveway.

The Hudson New York Corn Whiskey is pot stilled from 100% New York Corn and distilled at Tuthilltown Spirits.  At 92 proof (46% ABV) it has a little more kick than the previous whiskey I talked about.  It is clear and sold in the bottle design typical for Tuthilltown.  A nice feature this distillery has is that all of its inventory can be purchased in 375 ml. bottles.  Alas, though the bottles are half the size, the price is not.  The aroma on this whiskey was a little harder to pinpoint.  I got a little rubbing alcohol (though much less than the Stillhouse version) and stale champagne…almost a mustiness.  I looked online for another taster who opined “wet cement.”  This whiskey was a lot more raw.  It gave a nice bite on the tongue and a solid burn on the way down.  It is sweet; reminding me of frozen grapes.  That may be from the alcohol evaporating from tongue.

The last whiskey I tried was allegedly the real McCoy…no pun intended.  This particular batch was packaged with strawberries.  It was pink in color and served in a mason jar.  It was sweet, smooth and had a syrupy consistency.  In conversation, I learned that the “men folk” drink the clear stuff, while the whiskey with strawberries or cherries is for the ladies.  The fruit is added because it absorbs some of the alcohol, making it a little less alcoholic and less raw.  I also learned that just like the big distilleries, the illicit ones have their own jealously guarded recipes and techniques that are sometimes several generations old.  A pleasant fact I learned is that reputation is a major concern and that no one is going to buy their product if it tastes bad, kills you, or makes you go blind.  Sometimes this self-regulation exceeds national standards.  Of course, there is no way to be certain.  

What is Wheat Whiskey?

Of the four grains used in making whiskey, wheat is the one least represented.  During my research, I found very little information on the topic.  Most of my literature concerns itself with Rye, Scotch, and Bourbon.  Wheat is mentioned, but as an additional ingredient to a mash, not as its own whiskey. The internet followed a similar line of reasoning, but it had a few more bits of information.  Whiskey.Com had more information on wheat whiskey than any other resource I could find.

So what is wheat whiskey?  Well, as the name implies, its whiskey distilled from a wheat mash.  I was only able to find two sources on its regulation.  They both agree that the whiskey be distilled from a mash bill of at least 51 percent wheat, with the rest of the mash made up of other grains.  Bernheim Whiskey states that its whiskey is aged for two years in a new, charred white oak barrel.  This conforms to a similar requirement in the U.S. for a rye whiskey to be labeled as “straight.”  Whiskey.Com states that the age requirement is three years.  Neither site states the ABV of the whiskey before maturation.

As I mentioned earlier, wheat whiskey is under-represented in the whiskey world.  For my experimentations, I was only able to find two locally, and neither can be considered straight whiskies. 

The first whiskey my friends and I tried was Koval MidwestWheat Whiskey.  It is made using 100 percent “organic” wheat.   It is un-aged, so it’s perfectly clear.  The bouquet was baffling, in that all of us came up with different scents.  Aside from different noses, we all let our drinks breathe for different lengths of time, which had a noticeable effect.  I got a light bread or doughy smell, while my friends got hints of vanilla, licorice, and unripe banana/green plantain.  On tasting, I had white pepper “tingle” on the tongue with a finish that was short and sweet, like frozen green grapes.  Not everyone got the pepper, but they all got some sort of fruity/citric character from it.  We all agreed that for an un-aged whiskey, it was smoother than expected.

The other whiskey we tried was Buffalo Trace White Dog Wheated Mash.  They state, quite proudly I might add, that it is un-aged.  It, too, is perfectly clear.  Now, the difference from this whiskey and Koval’s is that it is not 100 percent wheat.  In fact, it is very likely that wheat makes up less than 51 percent of the mash bill.  So why did I get it?  Well, I like Buffalo Trace as a company and this product is very similar to their bourbon recipe, replacing the rye with wheat.  Also, the selection for wheat whiskey is fairly limited.  But I digress.  The bouquet was the first cause for debate.  We came up with all sorts of descriptions:  active dry yeast (the kind you add to warm water), grappa, sourdough, and sour wine.  Again, scents waxed and waned when it was allowed to breathe.  The second debate was the taste.  I got a light oatmeal taste with a smooth finish, while someone else got Easter Bunny eyes (a kind of “dull” candy taste) with a cognac-like finish.  I didn’t get any of the pepper I tasted with the other whiskey.  Again, it was smoother than what you would expect from an un-aged whiskey at 115 proof.

As with Rye, there seems to be an increase in the demand for wheat whiskey.  Whereas Rye is having a revival, Wheat is having its dawning.  From what I have gathered through research and shopping for wheat whiskey, it has only been in small batch production since 2005.  Perhaps it is the novelty of trying something new and different that is creating the demand.  I should also note that both of these spirits were not aged, which segues into the moonshine/poitín fad that seems to be developing.  Whatever the reason, whether it enjoys the same level of success as its brother and sister grains is anybody’s guess.

What is Rye Whiskey

What is Rye Whiskey



Aside from being a hardy cereal grain that has a high tolerance for colder climates, rye is one of the four grains that, when distilled, can be labeled a whiskey.  As I write, rye whiskey is currently undergoing a small but growing renaissance of sorts.  I’m starting to see more and more of the stuff, both in brands and varieties.  So much so that I felt that I should talk about it for a moment. 

Personally, I have little experience with straight rye.  Ten years ago, I found it to be rough or “raw”, like a very young scotch or blended scotch.  Also, unless the bottle tells you it is malted, it’s a grain alcohol, which also tends to be rough in character.  However, when it is part of a mash mixture (less than 50%), it is known for imparting what many call a “spicy” or “fruity” flavor to bourbon or other whiskies. 

Recently however, I have started to alter my opinion.  It can still be rough in character, but that’s only if you like it that way.  The products distillers are putting out today are starting to follow the format set down by the single malt industry.   Many of the bourbon distillers, such as Bulleit, Buffalo Trace, and Jim Beam, have added rye to their repertoire.  Woodford Reserve recently unveiled a “boutique” rye of its own.

Rye whiskey can refer to either of two types of whiskey: 1) American rye whiskey, which must be distilled from at least 51 percent rye or; 2) Canadian whisky, which is often referred to (and labeled as) rye whisky, although it may only include a very small proportion of rye in its production.

In the United States, "rye whiskey" is, by law, made from a mash of at least 51 percent rye, though in many instances it runs from 80 to 100%. The other ingredients of the mash are usually corn and malted barley.  It can’t be distilled higher than 80% ABV (160 proof) or go into the barrel for aging higher than 62.5% ABV (125 proof).   The barrels must be new oak barrels with the interior charred.  Rye whiskey that has been aged for at least two years may be designated as "straight" (i.e. straight rye whiskey.)

In Canada, Canadian law allows Canadian whisky to be called Canadian Whisky, Canadian Rye Whisky (that’s a whole lot of Canadian, eh?), or Rye Whisky, even though the actual amount of rye in the grain mixture is usually very small.  In truth, a corn mash makes up the majority of the spirit with the rye acting more like a “spice” ingredient.  This gives Canadian whisky a much mellower, sweeter character compared to the bolder American version.  Similarly, it must be aged in barrels, but the barrels do not have to be in new oak or charred.

For my experimentation, I tried Old Overholt and Redemption Rye.  The Old Overholt is very easy on the wallet and even easier to find, being a very common whiskey.  It is a straight rye, with the remainder of the mash bill consisting mainly of corn.  The bouquet was shocking to me.  My first sniff had me grinning from ear to ear.  It smelled like a great bourbon:  Kettle corn with warm oakey notes.  In hind sight, this should not have been such a shock (51% Rye\49% Corn vs. 51% Corn\49% Rye.) The taste was a unassuming: smooth, a little spicy, and dare I say...disappointing after the nosing.   The Redemption Rye was more of what I was expecting, but with a mash bill of 95% Rye it better be.  The bouquet reminded me of warm rye bread with the rough edge of grain alcohol, probably due to its short maturization time (two years to Overholt's four.)  The taste was all I could have hoped for and more.  It was bold and warming, almost like a cognac, and smooth going down.   

So the next time you pour yourself a dram and you're not in the mood for the complexity of a single malt scotch, or the smoothness of bourbon, a bold rye may make an interesting contrast.

Enjoy!

What is whisky?

When I sat down to write this post, I bounced around the Internet and referred to some of my books to find an easy to digest explanation about what a whisky is.  The problem I found was that the answer was too mechanical (i.e. whisky (ˈwɪskɪ) n. 1: a spirit made by distilling fermented cereals, which is matured and often blended) or assumed the reader already had certain knowledge.  So, let me make this long, but simple.

Whisky is a distilled spirit.  Which means that you have to take something that has alcohol in it and refine or “distill” it.  There is a long list of spirits you can distill. Other spirits include brandy (distilled from wine), rum (distilled from sugarcane or molasses), vodka (distilled from potatoes or grain but not aged), and gin (also distilled from grain and flavored with juniper berries and other ingredients but not aged.)

Whisky is distilled from one, or a combination, of the following four grains: Barley, Rye, Corn, and Wheat.  Simply put, you take water, one of these four grains, add yeast (which converts the sugars in the grain into alcohol), heat it in a copper still, collect the condensation and repeat.

While gin and vodka are also generally distilled from grain, they are not aged in wood barrels.  Whisky is further defined in that the process includes aging in oak barrels.  The oak is air permeable which helps oxidize the raw spirit and release flavor compounds which gives whisky its signature taste.

Remember that the word whisky is a broad term covering categories like Scotch, Irish Whiskey, and Bourbon.  Each of those categories has its own set of rules and regulations that define it.  So, when the bartender asks, "What'll you be having?", don't just say "Whisky", or you'll get a dirty look.  Trust me.

Sláinte